Dries Van Noten’s no-bullshit pure business mantra is off-putting. What we mean by no-bullshit pure business is that Dries is often more commercial than creative. That’s great for him, and his wallet, but Gynosome requires more visionary inspired work to get us talking. However this season he spun a tale of a relationship that shimmered and shone - the story of the women at one with nature.

 

Dries chose to present his SS15 collection in an industrial Parisian warehouse known as the Grande Palais Porter in the heart of the French capital. The atmosphere was euphoric; an immediate sense of Mother Earth was presented with meters of mossy banks playing the role of catwalk. I was sold as soon as I saw the carpet; hand crafted flooring by the Argentinean artist, Alexandra Kehayoglou. However the carpet was just one-minute piece of the masterpiece puzzle.

 

Dries Van Noten is often a designer overlooked by the fashion pack (yes, we see you with your hourly cup of coffee and sunglasses that could shelter a small family from the rain). That is not to say the Belgian maestro’s talent goes unnoticed- he remains one of the consistently best sellers globally. When it comes to the crazed Tumblr re-blogs and instant raving tweets though; the 56-year-old designer tends to slip away behind a mass of Prada and Saint Laurent hysteria. Not this Spring Summer: when the dries show became an act no one could follow.

 

Dries really calls out to Gynsome this season. Here, we’re looking at a collection that is made for the girl who looks for effortless, throw on pieces that create instant art. Surely this is what Dries does best? Let’s face it, if there’s anything that can make you look the shit with almost zero effort, Gynosome is up for it. 

 

No matter how outstanding a collection, if the show atmosphere isn’t to match then we’ve wasted our time. With the space, the opportunity and the creative outlets any designer would be a fool to simply have models walk to over-heard lyrics with nothing-special lighting.

 

DVN utilized his outlets with a gold backlit screen, in geometric folds stretched across the entire runway, illuminating the show space and emulating the golden pleats in the collection.

 

We were slowly introduced with the track “Strange Entity” by Belgian band Oscar and the Wolf. The pulsating crescendo allowed us to be immersed in the ethereal soundscape and beautiful views. The clothing alone informed us of women’s relationship to nature but the fading in and layering of chirping birds and still countryside further strengthened the message.

 

Perhaps it is just our literature and art obsession, but it appeared obvious that this collection drew inspiration from A Midsummer’s Night Dream and John Everett Millais’ Ophelia. Mr Noten also stated that while there are inspirations essentially the collection is “just clothes in beautiful fabrics” (this collection may have more imagination but DVN is still a strictly bullshit free zone) and that definitely cannot be disputed. The most luxurious fabrics, some of which were actually created for the collection, were displayed before our eager eyes.

 

Silk jacquard, the more delicate floral embroidery, brocade, organza appliques and gilded fabrics formed living art. DVN butterflies swam through a gold lighting that gave the impression of sunlight shimmering through secreted woodland. The extent of subtle detail was incredible as tunics consisted of shimmering organza layers with hidden ribbons woven in between and jewellery of precious stones and gems sat sweetly on the skin.

 

The collection also had some primal instinct going on. These girls were badass and that could be seen amongst the faultless beauty. Knee length aboriginal looks and clutches of fur reinstated that a Dries girl and a Gynosome girl might not be too dissimilar. They’re creatures that cannot be beaten - metaphorically and physically!

 

As the show drew to an end the languid dryads sunk to the synthetic moss walkway in a hypnotic state. The entire production- from clothing to ambience - immersed the audience within the nature-hungry DVN heaven.

 

Backstage, Dries explained that this SS15 is pitched to the women that “go to Stonehenge to feel close to the moon.” (We can’t say we’ve actually done this but my god this collection makes us want to). My cynical side says “for God’s sake it’s just earth tones.” What’s magical here is that this designer has effortlessly created a collection that mimics the soil and trees we view everyday but made it feel like it’s a derisory glimpse into a world you’d sell your own sibling to just spend one day in.